July 22, 2011

An African Eggplant Exposition


             
               “I have never seen these before in my life!” I myself have uttered these words several times in reference to new vegetables I’m encountering through ECV research but today it is Patricia Amegashie who is perplexed by the small, smooth fruits I’ve just produced from my bag. What is slightly ironic about this situation is that Patricia is not the student in this scenario; she is the teacher! We stare at the dozen green African eggplants sitting on the counter, exchange confused looks, and burst into laughter. It’s not the most confidence-inducing start to a cooking lesson when neither instructor nor student recognizes the lesson’s central ingredient. “Well… let’s just go ahead as planned and see what happens,” Patricia suggests. This sounds good to me. If there’s one thing I can say for sure about learning to prepare new foods it’s that uncertainty in the process is half of what makes it fun! 

                So how is it that I have gotten myself into a situation where I am learning to prepare a variety of African eggplant that neither I nor Patricia have ever seen? So far during my research in Guelph grocery stores I have yet to find African eggplants available. As a result, while I was aware that African eggplants have been identified as a highly preferred vegetable amoungst Afro-Caribbean Canadians I was not entirely sure what these eggplants looked like. Patricia, who is originally from Ghana, had generously agreed to teach me how to prepare a Ghanaian recipe using African eggplant if I were able to locate it. On a trip to Toronto one of the ECVOntario team members found the eggplants in a Chinese grocery store. Although they were being sold under the label ‘Thai eggplants’ my coworker recognized and confirmed that this variety of eggplant is also consumed throughout Nigeria. Differential labeling of ethno-cultural vegetables (ECVs) is often evidence of cross-cultural vegetable preferences. However, while my Nigerian colleagues identified these eggplants as ‘African eggplants’, my Ghanaian hostess was expecting me to procure a much different variety. While the eggplants I brought to Patricia’s were green and looked like smaller versions of miniature pumpkins she was envisioning the cream-colored, oval ‘garden eggs’ common to Ghana. I was reminded, not for the first time, how easy and how erroneous it is to underestimate African diversity and was grateful that Patricia wanted to forge on with our lesson in spite of this initial mishap.

                For our eggplant cooking lesson that afternoon Patricia suggested that we make two versions of a popular stew: one using the African eggplants and more traditional Ghanaian ingredients and a ‘Canadianized’ version using ingredients more readily available in local stores. She had already prepared the smoked mackerel we would be using by placing the fish, whole, on a baking sheet lined with paper towel and baking it in the oven heated to 350° for an hour. This was done to remove excess oil from the fish in order to improve its taste and texture for our stew. She had also pre-prepared a seasoning paste made of several cloves of garlic, a two inch slice of ginger root, dried Ghanaian chili peppers and several chopped shallots which have been combined in a blender. Having collected together all of the necessary ingredients we were ready to prepare the stews.

                 We began preparing the Ghanian eggplant stew by preparing the eggplants themselves. Patricia explained that she would be using the dozen small African eggplants I brought along in one stew and about half a dozen fist-sized dark purple Indian eggplants in the other. Indian eggplants are easily accessible locally and are therefore often used in substitution for African varieties. The limited availability of several ECVs preferred by Afro-Caribbean Canadians often results in a greater acculturation of this population’s food choices compared to other Canadian immigrant populations. We washed the eggplants, quartered them and set them to boil in pots of water on the stovetop for about 10 minutes until they were soft. While they boiled, Patricia placed two large frying pans on burners heated on medium heat. To one she added enough vegetable oil to coat the bottom of the pan. To the other she added the same amount of palm oil for a more authentic preparation of our stew. Into both pans she added two sliced shallots, frying for several minutes before adding two pureed tomatoes and a heaping teaspoon of tomato paste to thicken the base of our stew. Both pans also received a generous ladling of the spicy paste Patricia had already blended together. As the tomato base started to bubble and thicken Patricia stirred in shredded pieces of smoked mackerel into one pan and added a smoked fish head into the other. Sensing my apprehension about the fish Patricia reassured me that I would not be eating the fish head and that it will be removed once it’s smoky, salty flavor is released into the stew. I’m now starting to recognize, correctly, that this stew is a different regional variation of the egusi stew I learned to make with Rosetta. Patricia confirmed this as she added about a cup of group egusi seed paste to our fish head stew. 

                No stranger to culinary multi-tasking, Patricia left the tomato mixture to simmer and switched her attention back to the eggplants. I assisted her to peel the outer skin off both varieties of eggplant by hand after they had been drained and cooled. It was immediately apparent that the fleshier Indian eggplants would add a much different texture to our stew than the seedier African eggplant variety. Patricia explained that an earthenware tool similar to a large pestle and mortar is used throughout Ghana to mash the eggplants into a thick paste for this dish. She let me try my hand at this mashing technique on the Indian eggplant in her own earthenware but suggested we use a blender for the seedy African variety so that our stew would not taste gritty. 
                      
In spite of its granular texture the African eggplant was slightly sweet and pleasant tasting I discover after sneaking a sample. We added the mashed Indian eggplant to the shredded mackerel pan and the African eggplant to the pan with the fish head.  Patricia sprinkled a crumbled Maggi cube into the pan without egusi but our other pan has been well seasoned by the fish head and does not require additional flavouring. After removing the fish head and any accompanying bones from the pan we spooned the stew onto a plate of rice. Lunch is served!

Although both versions of our stew are seasoned with fish I wouldn’t describe either version as ‘fishy’. The eggplant and tomato mixture absorbs a smoky, salty flavor which is punctuated with a pepper-y heat from the chili and garlic seasoning paste. I am grateful to Patricia for showing me how to prepare this dish and am equally appreciative  that she has answered my many inquiries as to where she is able to access the traditional ingredients for Ghanaian dishes. Similar to other Afro-Canadians whom I have spoken with, Patricia pointed out that it is often difficult to find quality African produce even in specialty Afro-Caribbean groceries. The long distances that produce such as African eggplants typically travels before reaching grocery stores negatively impacts the freshness of these products. For as long as new Canadians continue to cook traditional dishes which incorporate global tastes there will exist many opportunities for Canadian producers to attend to these diverse preferences with fresh, locally grown produce. 


Stacie Irwin - ECVOntario Research Assistant, University of Guelph. 2011
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July 11, 2011

Okra: Many Names, Many Uses


            Whether you call it bhindi, lady fingers, bamya, gumbo or okra, the edible green seed pods increasingly available in Canadian grocery stores have as many different uses as they do names. Although many Canadian consumers have had little exposure to okra it has been consumed widely in warmer regions of the world for centuries. Believed to have originated in Ethiopia, initial okra cultivation began in Egypt and soon spread throughout Africa, the Middle East and Southern Asia. This warm weather loving crop made its way to the Americas in the 1700s during the slave trade and it has since become a staple in Cajun and Louisiana Creole cooking throughout the Southern United States. Fortunately, recipes to prepare okra are as diverse as the cultural groups who regularly incorporate this vegetable into their diets.  
            
                Admittedly, most of the Canadians I know are a little perplexed by okra. As it is a tender crop that requires hot temperatures and an absence of frost okra is not widely cultivated in Canada. Covered in tiny hairs and full of small, white seeds it is often not immediately appealing to those without experience preparing it. Its allure tends to decrease further still once it is learned that the okra secretes ‘slime’ when cooked in with water.  ‘Sliminess’, prized by some, tends not to be an endearing quality for a vegetable to have by most Canadians' standards. Yet okra is a nutritious, low calorie source of dietary fiber, foliate, as well as vitamins A, C and B6. In addition to these nutritional benefits it is a highly versatile cooking ingredient. It is only in recent years that okra has become more widely available in mainstream supermarkets in Canada spurred by demand from South Asian and Afro-Caribbean immigrants. Fortunately for an inexperienced okra consumer like myself there are a plethora of recipes and cooking techniques available to either minimize or capitalize on okra’s unique gelatinous properties.   
        
                Common methods of preparing okra include stir-frying, deep-frying or adding to curries or stews. African preparations of okra vary between these main forms of cooking, often incorporating combinations of tomatoes, onions and spices. Deep fried okra that has been sliced and battered in cornmeal is popular throughout the Southern United States, though okra is also well known as an ingredient in gumbo stew to which it lends its name.[1] Okra’s gelatinous properties act as thickening agents in stews such as gumbo and its mild flavour is said to compliment various seafood ingredients.[2] Conversely, stir-frying okra can minimize its internal gumminess. For my first okra-preparation experience I have enlisted the assistance of friend whose Indian family has shared a simple okra stir-fry recipe with me.

                While the appearance of okra in mainstream Canadian supermarkets may not have caused much of a stir among Canadians of European decent, you can bet that Indian-Canadians have noticed this change. As one of the most highly preferred vegetables consumed by the South Asian population okra’s increasing availability is seen as a small triumph for new Canadians of South Asian descent who remember a time just a few years ago that it was very difficult to access this key ingredient. “I still remember the day my dad called me a couple of years ago just to tell me that they were selling okra in the produce section of our local grocery store” my friend laughed as we chatted about popular Indian okra dishes. She suggested I try an easy okra stir fry recipe that her mom frequently prepares. Her instructions went as follows:
  
Okra Fry (Serves 4)

- Cooking Oil
- 2 red onions, finely diced
- 1 tbsp cumin
- 2 tbsp ginger, finely grated
- green chili: amount according to personal taste
- 2 gloves of garlic
- 2 pounds of okra
- salt to taste

1. Add 1 tbsp cumin in cooking oil in frying pan set on medium heat. When the cumin begins to turn red add the diced garlic, ginger and green chili to the pan. As the garlic is turning red add diced onions.

2. Once the onions become translucent add okra that has been cut in half inch rounds. Stir and add 1/2 a tsp of masala powder and salt to taste.

3. Remove from heat when the okra has softened. Serve!



                Not only was this recipe quick and simple to prepare, I was also pleasantly surprised by its taste. As I had never eaten okra before I wasn’t quite sure what to expect when I took my first bite. The okra slices were slightly crisp and spicy, far from the slimy mess that I had assumed they might turn into. With so many opportunities to prepare okra incorporating global tastes it is unfortunate that there are so few opportunities to eat fresh okra that is produced locally. Canadian okra production at present is generally limited to small scale producers who bring their knowledge of okra production with them to Canada. As the South Asian population in cities such as Brampton continues to grow, Ontario horticultural producers should explore the new marketing opportunities that increased demand for okra and other ECV crops present. Personally, with so many other okra recipes out there to try, I am certain that my relationship with okra has just begun! 

Stacie Irwin - Undergraduate Research Assistant, ECVOntario team 2011


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June 27, 2011

“A-goose-ee?” – From West Africa to South-Western Ontario

            “I’m not so sure about this Rosetta. I’m just a beginner Nigerian!” Peering into a pot of simmering beef, cow rind, fish and prawns that is soon to become egusi soup, I’m feeling both incredibly fortunate to have such a good cooking instructor and a little nervous about the meal we’re in the process of making. Let me back up for a moment. As a member of a multi-cultural research team I’ve been blessed with the chance to learn more about the experiences of Chinese, South Asian and Afro-Caribbean Canadians through one of the most central components of culture: food! Since many of the vegetables that the ECVOntario team is investigating are unfamiliar to me I’ve begun a personal exploration to learn how to prepare them and incorporate them into my own diet. On this particular afternoon I’m standing in Rosetta Johnson’s kitchen learning how to make one of many Nigerian versions of egusi soup. 

            Egusi refers to protein-rich melon seeds obtained from several different melons common to Western Africa.[1] Egusi soup is a common Central and West African stew-like meal made from regional variations of meats and vegetables and thickened with ground egusi seeds. Rosetta is an Ijaw, a river-side ethnic group in south-south Nigeria, and she is teaching me how to make a version of egusi soup she is familiar with that incorporates seafood. She has rinsed and soaked kanda (cow rinds) and dried stock fish (cod) overnight in order to soften them for our meal this afternoon. The pre-soaked kanda and stockfish are added to a large sauce pot on the stove-top set at medium-high temperature. Rosetta adds just enough water to cover the ingredients and covers the pot, leaving it to boil for about half an hour until the fish is soft and breaking apart. In another pot on medium-high temperature she begins to cook chucks of bone-in stewing beef that she has rinsed. To this she adds half a diced onion, a sprinkling of salt to taste and enough water to fill the pot with about an inch of water to help cook the meat. She seasons the beef once it is cooked, breaking apart Knorr soup stalk cubes (which she calls Maggi cubes[2]) and sprinkles them on to the meat. The beef is then fried in another sauce pot to which she has added several inches of vegetable oil and heated on high temperature. She explains to me that frying the beef adds flavour but that she herself often does not fry the meat to make a healthier-version of this commonly-eaten meal. Adding these fried beef chucks to the drained stockfish and kanda mixture Rosetta sets the meat aside and turns to preparing the egusi seeds. 

            Egusi seeds look very similar to dried pumpkin seeds. Rosetta has purchased a 250g bag of them from the Afro-Caribbean grocery in Guelph and shows me how to get them ready to add to our stew. She rinses the seeds and removes any pieces of husk she finds floating in the rinse water then drains them and puts them into her blender. Adding just enough fresh water to cover the seeds, she blends the egusi into a paste. Now it’s time to begin preparing the remaining seafood ingredients: dried catfish and smoked prawns. I admit, it’s at this stage in the processes I’m starting to get a bit nervous. Having been raised in a rural-Canadian family with a general aversion to all things fishy I confess my appreciation for seafood is slim to none. Rosetta, unlike I, is well-versed in smoked seafood and begins to explain to me how prawns are smoked and prepared back home in Nigeria as she opens a package of them and pours them into a colander for rinsing. Rosetta briefly boils both the prawns and the smoked catfish in hot water to remove any sand that may have gotten into the fish while drying. After draining and rinsing the catfish and prawns we’re ready to start bringing the egusi soup ingredients together. 

            After placing a large saucepot filled with enough palm oil to coat the bottom of the pan on medium-high Rosetta adds one large diced onion, several large spoonfuls of ground hot pepper, salt to taste, 3 crumbled Knorr cubes and begins to slowly stirs in the egusi paste. Continually stirring the egusi so as not to burn it Rosetta waits for the egusi to begin to thicken. After about 10 minutes of stirring she adds in the prawns, fish and meat mixture until it is evenly coated by the thickened egusi. Finally, she adds several cups of chopped spinach, using it in lieu of smooth amaranth. Smooth amaranth is the preferred vegetable for this dish though it is difficult to find fresh smooth amaranth in groceries and tends to require a trip to Toronto. Spinach is often substituted in its place by most African descendents in Canada. The palm oil has turned the mixture a pale orange colour flecked with green bits of spinach. While traditionally served with garri (eba), a starchy side-dish made from cassava, Rosetta is preparing semolina wheatlets which are more easily available in the Greater Toronto Area. She boils a few cups of water in a small saucepan and adds equal measures of the wheatlets, stirring rapidly as the wheatlets quickly form a thick, sticky ball. Lunch is ready! As Rosetta and I sit down to our bowls of egusi soup (…perhaps more accurately called egusi stew) she shows me how to pinch off pieces of the cooked wheatlets, roll them into small balls and use them to soup up the egusi mixture. She sent me home that evening with a heaping share of stew and a warm ball of wheatlets.

            Several days later, inspired by the first Nigerian cooking lesson, I attempted my own variation of egusi stew. Having yet to conquer my personal distaste for seafood I browsed the internet for an egusi stew recipe sans fish. After finding a recipe[3] that called for ingredients I knew I could easily find I headed to my local grocery store. Unable to find egusi, I substituted in pumpkin seeds and prepared them as Rosetta had shown me. Improvising between the online recipe and Rosetta’s teachings I concocted my own egusi soup-inspired meal served on rice with fried plantains. If there are any lessons to be learned from my first foray into egusi soup preparation they are these:  
1.       Eating with your hands using wheatlet balls as a scoop is much more fun than using utensils.
2.       One habenero pepper adds a lot of kick, one that my Caucasian parents would have appreciated knowing about before they took large spoonfuls of my first egusi stew effort.
3.       In spite of my best efforts, I am still very much just a beginner Nigerian.     

Stacie Irwin - Undergraduate Research Assistant, ECVOntario 2011                 
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June 23, 2011

ECV production at the Holland Marsh

The production of culturally appropriate vegetables is possible in Ontario. Please enjoy the video below on the activities of Prof. Mary Ruth McDonald at the Muck Research Station:



ECVOntario, SEDRD, University of Guelph.
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June 20, 2011

Bringing Home Baby... Bok Choy

              I’ve seen it several times before. More often than not it is nestled nonchalantly among the other vegetables in my Chinese take-out food container or hidden under cubes of tofu in my Thai pho soup. And yet, while I can easily identify bok choy and enjoy eating it, I must admit that it is not a staple vegetable you would find in my own kitchen. In fact, it has been an item I’ve tended to pass by all together while at the grocery story. 
             Since joining the Ethno-Cultural Vegetable Ontario (ECV) research team as an Undergraduate Research Assistance I’ve started to notice bok choy everywhere! Thanks largely to the demand generated by Chinese Canadians, the largest and fastest growing population of newcomers to Canada, this leafy Brassica rapa subspecies is becoming increasingly accessible to the average Canadian consumer. Consequently, others have begun to take note of this oriental green. Bok choy has gained the attention of health enthusiasts as a lower calorie vegetable rich in beta-carotene and vitamins A, C and K. In fact, in 2009 the Centre for Science in the Public Interest named bok choy a nutritional ‘Superstar’ in its ranking of vegetables commonly consumed in North America.[1] Recognizing the demand for this nutritious, highly-demanded ethno-cultural vegetable, Canadian producers and retailers have begun to take steps towards making bok choy more readily and locally available.
            While not traditionally cultivated in North America, Asian immigration has helped to facilitate increased production of bok choy on Canadian soil. Canadians of Vietnamese, Korean and Chinese backgrounds have historically been the primary Canadian producers of oriental greens such as bok choy, though producers of non-Asian decent are slowly realizing the crop’s marketing opportunities.[2] With many cool season varieties of bok choy seed becoming increasingly available in Canada some Canadian vegetable producers, particularly smaller scale farms, have begun to include bok choy in their crop rotations as a method of season extension. Similarly, Canadian food retailers have caught on to the significant demand for Asian greens and have slowly begun to make these products available in ‘mainstream’ grocery stores.[3] Having noticed that bok choy is regularly available in my local grocery store I did something last week that I’ve never done… I decided to bring it home.
            Standing in front of the produce section I surveyed my options. Shanghai bok choy, pak choy, joi choi – which one should I pick? And what on earth do I do with it once I’ve bought it? These same questions often prevent us from reaching for unfamiliar produce when rushing through the grocery store. Yet, armed with a resolution to taste global and faith in the wondrous resource that is the internet, I set my mind to trying something new. I grabbed what I deemed to be the least intimidating member of my grocery’s oriental greens selection: baby bok choy. After all, how hard could it really be to find a use for such an unimposing veggie?! Wrapping the small white bulb and its dark green leaves in a bag, I headed resolutely to the check out.
              I’m pleased to report that my first baby bok choy purchase made an excellent addition to my stir-fry that evening. It's hard to find a down side to adding a vegetable to my diet that both increases my appreciation for new foods and improves my health. Quick to prepare and easy to incorporate into soups, salads and stir-fries -  I’m out of excuses as to why not to include bok choy in my basket on my next shopping trip!   

Stacie Irwin - Undergraduate Research Assistant, ECVOntario team 2011                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       


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April 13, 2011

Acceptability of Ethno-Cultural Vegetables Increases.....






Food is an important component of culture. It is a symbol of unity, socialisation, and spirituality.  Even away from home, the nostalgia for ‘home food’ remains very strong; this has resulted in the continued transportation of ethno-cultural foods into Canada.  This is expected because with a diverse culture comes multiplicity in foods and food habits.  The diversity has not remained in the homes but ethnic dishes have joined the main stream food culture with a tremendous boost in familiarity, acceptance and consumption.  The recognition, consumption, and popularity of many of the Ethno-Cultural Vegetables (ECV) have continued to grow and many of these vegetables have been incorporated into the Canadian culture as the influx of immigrants continues to grow.

As more ECV are introduced into the Canadian market, the language spoken is broadened to incorporate them. Today every interested party knows what “bok choy” is, and it would be difficult to say the word is not Canadian. The explosion of immigrant populations coupled with a more health-conscious public and the increased consumer desire for more variety has continued to fuel the expansion of the demand for ECV. Stores have taken advantage of the diverse clientele by having a more robust selection of vegetables, which is seen in the assortment of vegetables sold, to meet the ever increasing clientele diversity. 

For example, Chinese stores sell Chinese vegetables but also have some South Asian vegetables and traditional vegetables.  Direct observation of the clientele base of these ethnic stores shows the beauty of diversity clearly represented as all ethnicities are well represented.  This trend has not remained imminent among the new comers but spread out across even other Canadians. A close look at Chinese stores reveals that a significant percentage of the clientele is actually non-Chinese.  The same is observed in the main stream stores where ECV have increasingly found their way onto the food shelves. 

The growth and diversity of ECV in Canadian culture is also reflected in the wealth of cuisines all with authentic styles and unique tastes and peculiarity shaped by the ingredients available.  The Canadian cuisine is shifting from the more familiar traditional dishes of German, Greek, French, and Scandinavian to a more embracing wider variety of spicy foods, sweet and sour dishes.  People are trying out different foods in their homes as more mixed populations are seen shopping in ECV stores. The culinary circles have not been left behind- walk into any bistro in Toronto and you’ll witness the amalgamation for yourself as we’ve gone ‘exotic vegetable crazy’. The Chefs have done little to disappoint as they fire up grills and woks and create wonderful dishes with ECV just to calm our appetite for these highly healthy and tasty vegetables.

There are also changes in the demographic trends that indicate an adaptability pattern among the clientele.  The ECV market is composed of the young generation eagerly venturing into the new world of ECV and the older ones trying to discover the secret of health embedded in these newly popular vegetables. 

However, the issue of quality vegetables remains a stumbling block as many of these vegetables still have to be transported across thousands of miles into Canada.  This affects their quality and lowers the value obtained by the consumers.  There is good news for ECV lovers, many of the ECV vegetables are highly adaptable to the Canadian climate especially those with short growing periods such as the cabbage family, okra and eggplants.  These can be fast grown or even planted in small gardens in backyards. Many are highly nutritious when eaten raw, fresh or steamed. 

Let us promote our locally grown vegetables as we embrace the benefits of diversity. Next time you are in a supermarket please remember to Eat Local, Taste Global.


Christine Kajumba, MSc Candidate
ECVOntario
SEDRD, University of Guelph


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April 6, 2011

Why farmers should consider ethno-cultural vegetables?

In 2003, the Small Farm Institute at the University of Maryland Eastern Shore in US decided to start researching ethnic and speciality produce. The question that led to this research was ‘Will mid-Atlantic farms survive recent changes in agricultural and population patterns?’  What was happening in the Mid-Atlantic region that was of such great concern? Farms and farm land were slowly disappearing, tobacco production, which was at one point one of the largest productions, was decreasing but agricultural cash sales have increased. These trends along with a fast growing ethnic population, have led the researchers at the Small Farms Institute to believe that ethno-cultural vegetables create a great opportunity for farmers in the Mid-Atlantic region. The Small Farm Institute argues that farmers have to adapt to the changes taking place in the region and take advantage of the ethnic food market if they want to stay in production.

Does the situation in Mid-Atlantic region sound familiar? Similar trends are taking place in Ontario. Farms and farm land are slowly disappearing due to urban or suburban developments and many farmers are forced to diversify their productions. The GTA also has a very large ethnic population. Toronto alone is home to about 1.5 million immigrants, which is about half the city’s population. It is also common knowledge that the average age of a farmer in Ontario in about 54 years. The increasing age of the average farmer in Ontario poses many concerns. Who will be the next farming generation?

The ethno-cultural vegetables (ECV) market seems to provide some light onto the dire situation. The production of ECV can help non-conventional and ethnic populations enter the agricultural sector. Likewise, the ECV market can help existing farmers remain in production. This will keep the farmers and farm land in agricultural production. ECV can also help bridge the cultural gap between farmers, ethnic market operators and consumers. Many discussions have taken place around connecting producers to consumers and helping develop a more direct and personal relationship between the two parties. It is exactly this personal relationship that is missing in the conventional food market and why many people choose to eat local. In order to reach ethnic groups, which play a prevalent and significant role in many communities in Ontario, we can start with producing and promoting vegetables that are common to their cultures and food habits.



There is a general impression that cultural food habits are one of the last traditions people change or loose when migrating to a new country or region. If we want the majority of people within the GTA to eat local, we have to start producing global food locally.

For more information about the Small Farm Institute Reports, please go to:


Monika Korzun
PhD Candidate
Rural Studies
University of Guelph
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