Pleasure and Hospitality: Attributes of Culturally Appropriate Foods

 

Milk Tea: A popular beverage in Bangladesh

I wrote this piece on a snowy late afternoon while sipping a hot cup of coffee. Outside my window, I can see how the streets were blanketed in an enchanting layer of white snowflakes. The snow fall reminds me of those rainy days back home in Bangladesh where people often enjoy the melody of rain by sharing stories, munching on warm, crispy pakoras (fritters made with vegetables, gram flour, spices, and herbs). The taste of good food, the sound of rain, spending time with loved ones create moments of sitting back, with joy, and contentment. It is always memorable to observe Adda.

“Adda” is a Bangla term used to refer a casual get-together with acquaintances. Adda is one of the most popular social gatherings to unwind and unite with loved ones. They are often organized at someone's home, where friends and family gather to catch up and chat over a steaming cup of cha (tea) and snacks. The snacks served can include samosas (a triangular-shaped deep-fried, crispy pastry filled with spiced potatoes, peas, meat, or other vegetables), or Jhal Muri (puffed rice, mixed with different spices, herbs, diced onion, tomato, chili peppers, lime zest). Cha is a popular beverage, and its consumption is woven into the frame of everyday life. Furthermore, it is an expression of hospitality and warmth. There are two popular forms of Cha in the Bengali culture: milk tea and masala tea. Milk tea is made with black tea leaves, sugar, and milk. On the other hand, Masala tea (spiced tea) is a more flavorful version of tea that is made with a blend of spices and herbs. The common spices used in masala tea include ginger, cloves, cardamom, and cinnamon.

 

Jhal Muri: Spicy Puffed Rice

Nowadays, having quick and lonely meal- time has become the norm due to my hectic schedule and limited social connections. I long for the sound of laughter, banter, and warmth of our family kitchen, where the aroma of my mother's cooking would fill the air. Bengali cuisine reflects the harmonious balance of flavors, and diversity inherent in the culture of Bangladesh. One of the key elements that make it so unique and flavorful is the use of a variety of spices, such as chilies, garlic, cumin, turmeric, ginger, coriander, mustard seeds, bay leaves and cardamom. Additionally, geographical location, history, and climate greatly influence Bengali cuisine.

 

The factors listed above affected the type and way our vegetables are prepared. A variety of vegetables (leafy greens, potatoes, squash, radish, carrots, okra, cucumber, eggplant, cauliflower, cabbage, etc.) hold a prominent place in Bengali meals and are used to create different nutritious and flavorful dishes. From curries to stir-fries, vegetable dishes are a hearty way to incorporate fresh ingredients into a meal. The fresh vegetable markets offer consumers a variety of options for purchasing locally grown vegetables that are in season. In addition to vegetable markets, vegetable carts are also popular which offer a convenient way for consumers to buy fresh produce on the go. These mobile vendors travel through neighborhoods, sell a variety of fresh vegetables to customers who may not have the time to travel to a marketplace.

Vegetable Market: Dhaka City

Food is deeply connected to my feelings and memories of Bengali culture. The process of organizing and cooking traditional dishes is also a way to express love and care for others. For instance, certain dishes may be associated with a specific person, and time and can take you back to a feeling of nostalgia. Sometimes, grandparents pass down recipes and cooking procedures to their grandchildren. Cooking certain dishes builds bridges among multiple generations. These meals are a way of celebrating our ancestors, who lived before us. The significant aspect of food is not limited to nourishing but is deeply rooted in traditions and emotions. Food serves as a symbol of unity, celebration, hospitality, generosity, and expression of cultural identity.

 

Mahbuba Airin | Graduate Student, CDE | ECVOntario

SEDRD | University of Guelph.

 

 

Read More »

Food Research during COVID-19

 *This is part of our series on the nexus between COVID-19 and food systems.

Hibiscus tea and soup at La Khaima

A few days ago, I spent two hours on the phone with a friend in Shanghai, China discussing the zero covid policy and how it affected his economic situation and his physical as well as mental health. We also discussed the implication on the global value chain now that China is gradually returning to normal. The two-hours conversation reminded me of a pending writeup based on a documentation I did in December 2021. Please get a cup of organic tea, a bowl of ogi (eko), or a warm cup of rooibos tisane as you peruse the journey below:

On Monday, Dec. 20, 2021, I arrived at the Guelph train station enroute to Montreal. At this point in time, passengers are expected to provide hard copy or digital proof of vaccination. Before boarding, the QR Code on our proof of vaccination and boarding pass were scanned for all the passengers. After a brief stop at the Union Station in Toronto to change trains, I arrived in Montreal and was able to check in to my hotel just after 9 pm. On my way to the hotel, I was informed that restaurants and bars were closed which later turned out to be a misinterpretation of the government’s announcement. At the hotel, the staff on duty indicated that because of COVID there would be no room service including housekeeping. I discovered that there were also no room hand sanitizers. Guests were expected to use a general sanitizer by the elevator. Furthermore, the hotel stopped complimentary bottled water and there was no breakfast which had been part of their service in 2018. Services have deteriorated significantly within three years, and this is not entirely due to the pandemic.

I woke up the next day, Tuesday, Dec 21, 2021, mentally ready to document the challenges faced by the food systems in Montreal under the prevailing pandemic. Since there was no more breakfast by the hotel, I had to visit Cora, a Canadian franchise for breakfast and lunch. At the place, my proof of vaccination was also scanned before I was allowed into the restaurant. All other regular restrictions expected in a restaurant were also observed in the restaurant. A state of emergency was later declared by the Quebec Government because of the increasing cases of COVID-19 even though while passing through the streets of Montreal, the impact of the state of emergency was not necessarily apparent.

Breakfast at Cora, Montreal

Day three, Wednesday Dec 22, 2021. I started the day again with a Cora breakfast. Within less than my breakfast hour, ten people were in the restaurant. Thus, the state of emergency notwithstanding, some people were still willing to eat out. After my breakfast I called La Khaima to book a space to experience Mauritania/Morocco cuisines. Although the owner was not sure whether they would be open, people seemed not to understand the state of emergency implications. After a brief discussion I was able to get space for 5 pm. I decided to explore Montreal’s streets before my dinner at La Khaima. My exploration led to more than an hour stop at a specialty café, Café Olimpico, that is less than 200 metres to my destination. People are social beings, and the café was a solace for people longing for social interaction in a safe space. In this space familiarity trumped having a vaccine passport. The space is trendy, cozy, homely and classy and the customers are likely middle and upper class – those who could afford a latte for more than $5. It is generally a white space though I met a young Congolese lady studying law at a Montreal university. An indication that white is not necessarily based on color, there is a possibility of color privilege based on education. Did spaces become more class and race concentrated because of the pandemic? The francophone lady wanted to be seen but she didn’t want to say she is African. I am from here she said when I asked her country of origin.

Cafe Olimpico

The music playing was very soothing to the extent that I forgot that the pandemic was still around. Clover, a Cloud based point of sale platform, was the payment system used at the Olimpico café. People in this space seemed not to be bothered by, OMICRON, the strain of COVID-19 creating havoc that time. Most of the people were working on their laptops as seen in cafes such as Balzac’s coffee roasters and Starbucks. This space was where I discovered that media can be a source of misinformation. I totally forgot about the pandemic until I reached my hotel room and started watching scary news updates on television. My takeaway from Olimpico was that restriction may not go well with people even though OMICRON was then a challenge.

Cake and latte at Olimpico

Before returning to my room, I walked for around 10 minutes from Olimpico café to La Khaima, entering the restaurant at 5:01 pm for my dinner. The cuisine for the night was Soup – Lentil soup with turmeric and ginger and a three-course meal. 1^st – chicken with olives; 2^nd – Beef with dates; 3^rd – Mixed vegetables with chickpeas + couscous. The mixed vegetables were a blend of olive, okra, cabbage, carrot, chickpeas. The restaurant was designed in such a way that you felt you were in a desert tent. The air was filled with the aroma of the cuisines from the Sahel and different music from Africa. The dinner started with an appetiser, a hot hibiscus tea, served in a traditional kettle to keep the drink warm. The owner took his time to educate me about the cuisines and that the palatability of couscous is a function of the sauce. And that slow cooking improves the taste and spreads the ingredients evenly. The evening was pleasant and 30 people were at the restaurant while I was there. The shock was that I was the only person of African descent in the restaurant during my stay. Until today I still wonder why there were more non-Africans in a restaurant serving African cuisines. Could it be the price? I observed the same scenario in a Moroccan restaurant, The Sultan’s Tent and Café Maroc, in Toronto, six years ago. Food is already globalized but it may become exclusive for people of a certain class and/or education.

After my documentation, I returned to Guelph on Thursday, Dec. 23, 2021. I left Montreal with the first train at 6.11 am, arrived in Ottawa at 9.30 am due to a delay as a result of cargo freight obstruction on the rail. The stopover in Ottawa was to have a brief meeting with friends and deliver their Christmas packs. I left Ottawa at 3.33 pm, arriving at the Toronto Union station before 9 pm and took the 9.34 pm Go train to Guelph (Metrolinx has improved rail connectivity to include cities outside the Greater Toronto Area up to Kitchener).

This journey and other research experience during the pandemic indicate that inequality has deepened, exclusion is more prevalent, food shortages have increased and at times quality is compromised. Furthermore, socialization was significantly curtailed, and income was reduced because of layoffs and reduced hours. I hope we will be able to manage random events better in the future.

Bamidele Adekunle|IRG & ECVOntario|SEDRD|University of Guelph.

Read More »

Burgers for All

 

When North Americans think “fast-food”, the first thought that comes to our mind is “burgers and fries”. This may be due to the high presence and saturation of the world-famous restaurant, McDonald’s. Although each burger has a unique recipe, there are a few staple ingredients: A toasted bun, a slice of cheese and/or vegetables, and a meat-based patty. However, what about those who choose not to eat meat? 

According to a research study conducted at Dalhousie University in 2018, vegetarians and vegans accounted for 9.4% of Canada’s population (Flanagan, 2018). This study suggested that people under the age of 35 were more likely to consider themselves vegetarians or vegans compared to people 49 years old or older. Younger consumers with more education are committing to more “specialty diets”. Based on this study, vegetarian and vegan consumers are increasing at a rapid pace therefore, restaurants and meat-production industries must tailor to this new way of living. 

For those who choose not to eat meat, there are very few options. I, myself, am not a vegetarian or vegan but I have friends and relatives who do not eat meat and often find it difficult to find a vegetarian-friendly restaurant, specifically fast-food. I find that meat eaters take the plethora of burger joints available, for granted. However, as there is a rise in vegetarian and vegan consumers, vegetarian and vegan options are also slowly growing and becoming more common. For this blog post, I decided to try some vegetarian burger options near me. Specifically, I wanted to compare the quality of a more popular fast-food chain vegetarian burger, to the quality of a vegetarian restaurant’s burger. 

Beyond Burger

A&W is known for serving grass-fed beef, raised without the use of hormones, steroids or antibiotics (A&W, 2020). In 2018, all A&W restaurants in Canada began to serve plant-based burgers, provided by Beyond Meat. Beyond Meat is recognized for creating plant-based patties which look, cook, and taste like a traditional beef patty (Beyond Meat, 2022). There are misconceptions that plant-based burgers will not “satisfy the burger craving” or not taste as good as their beef burger counterpart. However, I am glad to say I was joyfully proven wrong! The “Beyond Meat Burger” from A&W was scrumptious and tasted like a regular beef burger. The contents of the burger were like a “Teen Burger” from A&W, as it had lettuce, tomatoes, onions and pickles between freshly toasted sesame seed buns. The beyond meat patty had a crispy outside, with a juicy inside. This burger was a blissful surprise, and it costs the same price as the “Teen Burger”. However, it is approximately $2 more than McDonald’s “Big Mac.” I would recommend this burger to all burger eaters as it checks all my boxes for a good burger!

Copper Branch

The vegetarian restaurant that I went to was Copper Branch; a vegan restaurant which serves 100% plant-based foods. As of 2019, the franchise has opened 45 locations across Canada, with 16 locations in Ontario, and some branches established internationally as well (Retail Insider, 2019). I was eager to try the burgers from Copper Branch because the franchise does not aim to serve products which taste like meat alternatives, but rather to serve products with a more authentic taste. I wanted to order something equal to the “Beyond Burger” from A&W for consistency purposes, so I ordered the “Black Bean Burger” which had lettuce, tomatoes and southwest sauce between sesame seed buns. This burger was imposing as the first bite was filled with an array of flavours. The “Black Bean” patty had a hint of sweetness to it, and a kick of spice as well. The texture was soft but did not crumble when eating it. The burger did not taste like the traditional beef burger but had its own distinct flavour, a flavour which I would like to enjoy again. The price of the “Black Bean Burger” was almost $5 more than McDonald’s “Big Mac” yet is a prime alternative. This option for non-meat eaters can become a favourite for many as the restaurant serves a variety of products with many unique flavours to offer.

Black Bean Burger

Both A&W and Copper Branch’s burgers provided me with a pleasant tasting experience and gave me more reason to eat consciously. As the number of vegetarian and vegan consumers continues to rise, restaurants need to include alternatives to allow for greater choice. Choosing meat alternative products can encourage production and potentially increase product choice too. So, if you are ever craving a good juicy burger, I invite you to try the “Beyond Burger” from A&W. Or, if you are craving a burger with a kick to it, try the “Black Bean Burger” from Copper Branch. You will not be disappointed!

 

References

A&W. (2020). A&W Company. Retrieved from A&W: https://www.aw.ca/awhome.nsf/company/

Beyond Meat. (2022). Beyond Burger. Retrieved from Beyond Meat: https://www.beyondmeat.com/en-CA/products/the-beyond-burger

Flanagan, R. (2018). More than 3 million Canadians Vegetarian or Vegan: Study. CTV News.

Retail Insider. (2019, February 25). Plant-Based Concept ‘Copper Branch’ Announces 26 Locations for 2019. Retrieved from Retail Insider: https://retail-insider.com/retail-insider/2019/02/plant-based-concept-copper-branch-announces-26-locations-for-2019/

 

Jevon Devasagayam

Global Management Studies Department

Toronto Metropolitan University

 

Read More »

Food: A Bengali Perspective

 

Bhapa Pitha - Bangladeshi Winter Delicacy

As an international student, living in a foreign country, the food that I have an appetite for, and cook is an accumulation of my convenience and experience instead of my taste buds. Coming from a Bangladeshi heritage, food is not only a means of survival or nutrients but also a means of cultural celebration, community engagement, building and sharing social bonds.

The opportunity, to work on this write-up made me reflect on the idea of how food is beyond nutritional value. My impression is that food is not limited to nutrients and taste. Food can also be an advocate for more insightful and purposeful causes. After examining food through the lens of a critical perspective, my narrative about food has extended toward building strong community ties. The warmth of food serves as a catalyst for spreading harmony in society.

In Bangla, the language spoken by the Bengali people, there is a common saying “Machh-e-Bhat-e-Bangali” which translates in English as “Fish and rice make a Bengali”. Bangladeshi cuisine has been shaped by the local landscape and river line geography. Rice and fish are the staples of Bangladesh. People eat rice in different forms: steamed or puffed. Bangladeshi curry is famed for its use of a wide range of freshwater fish and seafood. Hilsa fish is the most popular one, but other common fish include rohu, punti, catfish, bata, clown Knifefish, and Tilapia.

Fish Market - Dhaka Bangladesh

Sharing Food with other people in the community plays a significant social role in Bangladeshi culture. During Ramadan, families share home-cooked iftar (meal after breaking the day-long fast) with their neighbors and underprivileged people. This social experience of sharing food with other fellow citizens regardless of religious faith creates a sense of inclusivity in the community. Thus, people from diverse faiths and backgrounds celebrate the social value of harmony.

In the fast-paced world, where doing is more valuable than being, sharing food with neighbours gives us the opportunity to begin a beautiful relationship with our neighbours. My parents have moved houses several times and each time we had kind neighbours who would prepare freshly cooked homemade meals, pickles, herbs, or vegetables so that my parents wouldn't have to cook or eat out at a restaurant while they were still in the process of moving. It is only now that I am living in a foreign country far away from home, I can relate and realize how valuable human connection is. This beautiful gesture of sharing blessings with other fellow human beings, can open the doors of communication and social bonding. It’s hard to say no to free food.

Nature has adorned the land of the river with her six shades of green: summer, monsoon, autumn, late autumn, winter, and spring. Bengali people enjoy the mild cold of Winter with delicious Pitha (or pies). Pitha is a traditional homemade cake with local ingredients such as rice flour, molasses, milk, date juice and coconut. During this time, varieties of Pithas are prepared: Bhapa Pitha (Steamed rice cakes made with ground rice flour, molasses, and grated coconut), Chioti Pitha (steamed flat pancakes made with rice flour), Patishapta (sweet crepes filled with coconut and molasses), Puli Pitha (steamed dumplings stuffed with coconut and jaggery), Nakshi Pitha (deep-fried crispy rice cake made with rice flour, Jaggery syrup). Celebrating winter may remain incomplete without the aroma of this winter delicacy. Each person can choose something they really like from sweet to savory, from steamed to fried, from golden to white. Pitha has no strict formulaic preparation. Apart from the winter season, Bengalis express their love for this local delicacy in other special occasions like celebrating Bengali new year, Eid, Puja, weddings etc.

Pitha is more than just an expression of a festival. It is a glorious demonstration of locally grown food ingredients and agriculture. I can vividly feel the mouth-watering taste of Bhapa Pitha when I read the recipe which is a steamed rice cake made with rice flour, molasses, and grated coconut. Embracing the practice of eating local food can be a support for local small businesses. Elora Begum, a local vendor in Dhaka city, sells Pithas in roadside carts during the winter. She has been preparing this delicious goodness for years with easily accessible local ingredients. This small business is generating income for her. Therefore, buying local food can contribute to strengthening the local economy.

Misty - Bangladeshi Sweets

Sharing happiness with loved ones makes the experience more joyful. In Bangladesh, no celebration is complete without having “Misty”. Misty is a common name for Bangladeshi sweets. Misty is prepared with whole milk, cream, sugar, flour, and different flavoring agents: cardamom, and saffron. People here love to share any good news with sweets. For instance, if a family welcomes a newborn baby, they tend to send sweets to relatives, and neighbours. Sharing the light of joy and happiness with community members expresses the gesture of belongingness. This practice spreads the sweetness of connectivity among residents in a community. The feeling of being connected with the "tribe" makes us feel safe.

Mahbuba Airin

Graduate Student, CDE | ECVOntario

SEDRD, University of Guelph

 

Read More »

Behind the Aroma II: Understanding Skin in the Game

 

I like interacting with people and learning about their ideas. Working with ‘Behind the Aroma II’ as a Graduate Research Assistant has helped me learn from people from different backgrounds, These people include shop owners, restaurant managers,  people in academia and industry experts. I had the opportunity to learn about what they do and what they know best.

Xawaash Restaurant Mississauga, Ontario

The experience made me go to different places here in Guelph, which exposed me to the city as I am new here. It also gave me a sense of accomplishment as I was making and meeting appointments every week with new people for discussions around the topics of the podcast. I was also glad that the work I was doing supported research that will help educate others about food authenticity.

Balzac’s Coffee Guelph, Ontario

During the four months of summer, I visited the Guelph Farmers Market, the Ethnic Supermarket, Xawaash Restaurant and Bogda Restaurant for research on Halal food. I discovered how diverse the markets are and how the two restaurants cater to people beyond those who have halal food preferences. It opened my eyes to how people in Canada from different origins seek to explore food from cultures other than their own.

I learned the immediate impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the food industry, especially on specialty foods such as organic, locally grown, and halal. As sourcing became limited and difficult because there are few suppliers and producers of specialty goods in Ontario. As a result, vendors were not able to keep up with the restrictions and decline in sales, forcing them to give up their spots in the Farmers’ Market or eliminate specialty products from their menus.

Furthermore, I also conducted interviews with the manager of Balzac’s Coffee shop, the manager of Crazy Carrot restaurant and the owner of Cavan Coffee. I got to know how they source their coffee and ingredients and what their values are and how they make sure those values are made known to their customers. These interactions gave me the opportunity to learn how these coffee shops support coffee growers around the world to ensure they have a living wage by subscribing to the fair trade movement.

Crazy Carrot Restaurant Guelph, Ontario

By meeting and holding discussions with industry experts like Ms. Mariama Deen-Swarray, Mr. Sand Mba Kalu, Ms. Marthane Swart, Mr. Tunde Oyebade, and Mr. Simon Jacques, my perspectives were widened on the work being done in Canada and in the world to educated people on the authenticity and origins of food. I got to learn about geographical indications and the implications of the word and was introduced to African companies paving the way for development and recognition in geographical indications such as the Rooibos Council.

Here in Canada, I got to understand the process of Organic certification through ECOCERT which is rigorous in nature and involves multiple site visits by professionals at different stages of the growing and harvesting process. There is also a tremendous difference between organic certification and other food certifications as other food certifications are not thoroughly verified in Canada as is organic. This shows that there is an asymmetric information and the possibility of adverse selection in the market.

Behind the Aroma II has afforded me the opportunity to learn about what our food actually is and where our food comes from through subject matter experts like Dr. Robert Hanner, Dr. Sri Sethuratnam, and Ms. Anju Philip. What we see or read on food labels isn’t necessarily the whole truth about the product. It was fascinating to hear about advancements in technology in identifying what is in the food we buy, the origins of the species and the environment in which it was grown through DNA barcoding.

The fieldwork was really enjoyable because I was able to discover new places in Guelph such as shops, cafes, markets, and quiet places to study at the University of Guelph campus. Interviewing people online in the ECVOntario remote podcast studio was the challenging part of this experience but I got more comfortable with it as time progresses.

University of Guelph Summerlee Science Complex Atrium

Some of the competencies I gained through this experience are relationship building, public speaking, research, and interview skills. These skills will be useful as I continue to grow in my career, which will involve interviews, focus group discussions, surveys, knowledge translation and transfer, analyses and report writing.  look forward to listening to the finalized second season of ‘Behind the Aroma’ and sharing it with my colleagues and friends.

Chitegetse Rutihinda

MSc CDE Graduate | ECVOntario | IRG

SEDRD, University of Guelph

Read More »

Cappuccino or Latte? Preference as a function of Utility

The hot sun starts peeking through the trees in the early mornings of a summer July day. Listening closely, you hear the birds chirping as the leaves are swaying in the hot breeze. Taking in that breath of fresh air, the aroma of freshly brewed coffee creeps its way through the tent. Waking up after a night of camping can be rough, but at this point, you know life is good with that fresh cup of coffee waiting for you.

Find the light that will make your coffee shine its brightest.

 

I was never really into exploring coffee as a poor student and frugal individual. I did not see the benefit of spending more than $3 for a cup of coffee, let alone an $8 coffee at Starbucks. It did not sit well with my bank account. My first choice was always a medium regular coffee. Just the right amount of caffeine intake, with the perfect splash of cream and sugar. Fast forward to my early 30s is when I discovered there was more beyond this. The biggest turn around happened when I landed a job as a café manager. Learning the ins and outs was a challenge; the precision of weight to water yield was very important for that perfect brew. The weight of the grinds to allow for the proper drip was key to the perfect crema. Yet the biggest eureka moment was when I found out the difference between the cappuccino and latte. That is when I knew I had not been drinking coffee properly.

As I fix the portafilter onto the espresso machine and begin the pour, I watch the creamy, silky stream of the espresso flow right into the mug, creating this beautiful caramel-coloured crema, sitting so smoothly on top. The espresso should never sit longer than thirty seconds after the pour is finished, so I start steaming the milk as the espresso is going. The trick is to steam with lots of foam or less foam. The cappuccino is considered a dry beverage, meaning a thick layer of foam sits on top of the steamed milk, whereas the latte is considered a wet beverage, with a thin layer of foam on top of the steamed milk. As the steaming comes to an end at a temperature of 120 degrees, we tap the pitcher of steamed milk on the counter a couple times to rid the bubbles, swirl the cup of espresso around a couple times and start pouring the milk. Watching the milk pierce the espresso is as relaxing as listening to a jazz band in a park. But finishing the pour with the perfect rosetta is as satisfying as winning first place in your eighth grade relay race. Placing the cup on top a saucer, and the drink is now ready to be served.

Coffee is a complex individual. People of all walks of life are still asking an assortment of questions. “What is the difference between the cappuccino and latte?” is the most common question asked. It is a valid question as not all coffee drinkers are familiar with the coffee world. Most first timers start off with drip coffee, adding the milks, creamers and sugars. Then you realize there is a whole different world full of lattes, cappuccinos and frappés. There comes a time to discover the true essence of coffee- black coffee and the espresso shot. Imagine, as you bring that cup of coffee to your lips, you get a whiff of the fresh aroma, you take that first sip. The warmth and the flavour takes you to the core, bold taste of the Arabica beans from around the world. But, then you wonder, what is it that you really like?

The first brew of the day is the kick start to something amazing.

Regardless of the wide array of coffee available, the cappuccino and latte are the most popular drinks on the menu. It is all a matter of what flavour you are looking for. Whether it be more milk for a larger drink, or more foam with more espresso for a stronger drink. It is what your tastebuds can handle.

There are days the extra foam can hit the spot, while on a snowy winter day the large, hot milky coffee is made perfectly to warm your hands and insides. At the end of the day, the preference between the cappuccino and latte is your choice.

*Note: to discover a variety of coffee from around the world, check us out at a local café in Southern Ontario or peruse our online store at www.balzacs.com.

Linden Ngo

Café Manager

Guest Contributor| ECVOntario

Read More »

A Somali Breakfast

 

It was few minutes after 9am on a cold winter Sunday morning. We met at a friend’s car park and drove to Salaama Hut, a Somali restaurant in Etobicoke, Toronto to enjoy a Somali breakfast. We arrived at the restaurant around 10:15am and by 10:25am we were waiting for our meals.

Anjeera - A Somali Staple

To impress the Somalis in the restaurant we started by greetings in the Somali way:

Subah Wanaagsan.  Iska waran? Of which they responded ficaan.

I was at the restaurant with a Maasai from Kajiado, a Somali from Kebir Dahar (Qabri Dahare), and an Amhara with a mixed background from Bedeno.

The hospitability of the owner, whom I have known since 2015, when I first did my research about Somali gastronomy, was exceptionally warm. Furthermore, the chef and waiters also gave us special consideration – it seems most of their customers are Somali.

Chapati and Kidney Stew

We ordered for different cuisines from the menu. These different preferences may be based on our past experiences, knowledge about food and proneness to adventure. The Amhara and Somali ordered malawah and kidney stew, the Maasai ordered chapati and kidney stew and I ordered malawah and liver stew. The only thing that was common for all of us was the Somali tea which was made from hot water, ginger, black tea, sugar and milk. We enjoyed this tea so much that we had to go for a second round. This common preference for tea reflects the influence of the colonization of both our countries of birth and naturalization.

Liver Stew

As we devoured our food, we discussed the disappearance of knowledge about indigenous African food and that the meal we are eating is for the affluent because is always expensive and challenging to get enough liver or kidney for everyday breakfast stew. The Somali from Kebir Dahar (Qabri Dahare) alluded to the fact that breakfast in his region is mostly from Sorghum or millet porridge with milk (if time, environmental impact, and resources permit). I immediately agreed with him because I am aware of the regional differences in food preferences among the Somalis. For example, the Barawe or Bravanese have a special type of muufo (Somali flatbread) called Muufo Barawe. Furthermore, he also once asked whether Bajiya is a Somali food and I replied that it is. Apparently, he is not familiar with it because he grew up in the Ogaden region and Dadaab. His experience would have been different if he had grown up in Mogadishu, Hargeisa, or Kismayo before the civil war.

Somali Tea

 

It is interesting how space, time and experience affect our preferences. The Amhara was happy with the breakfast because it brought back memories of his teenage years in Nazreth (Adama), Ethiopia. The Maasai indicated that his people in rural areas don’t necessarily have a breakfast because they wake up early to take the animals for grazing. Maasai are nomads and traditionally move around in search of water and food for their livestock. And that is why there is movement of both people and animals across the Serengeti in Kenya and Tanzania.

Milk may be available at times from cows. In the Maasai community, the kidney of a goat is usually consumed raw immediately after slaughter so there is none left for a kidney stew. Kidney stew is prepared from the cattle. He further indicated that liver stew is more available, and it is usually a delicacy for pregnant women because it helps to supplement their iron need. Tea preparation is the same with the Somalis, but it does not necessarily include ginger but instead, cloves and lemon grass.

 

To emphasize the importance of location in food preferences, the Somali indicated that breakfast is a function of whether you live in the countryside or in a town. In the countryside, sorghum porridge with milk from camel or cow is consumed in the morning. Milk is usually from the Nugul (domesticated, non-hardy animals). In the towns, anjeera with oil and tea is the popular breakfast. Upper middle-class people often eat their anjeera with kidney or liver. The Amhara corroborated the Somali assertion by enunciating that our breakfast, kidney or liver stew, at Salaama is a holiday or festive period cuisine.

As a researcher and because of my willingness to learn, I felt it will be unfair if we had a Somali breakfast without anjeera, so I ordered four pieces which we all enjoyed with our different stews. Anjeera has a fermented aroma unlike malawah that is not fermented. The waitress was surprised at how voracious we were with the anjeera and the liver and kidney stews. Little did she know that we have similar food in our indigenous cuisines – corroborating my thesis that we share a lot in common with respect to food though the methods of preparation are different.

Towards the end of our stay a Nigerian, whom I was privileged to teach in 2013, joined us. I asked him for the main breakfast for the people of eastern Nigeria, His response was that there is no eastern Nigerian food but there are Nigerian foods. This is an indication that identity and ethnicity are difficult concepts. Culture itself is not static, and people have different ways of defining themselves including what they think is culturally appropriate.

What a Sunday morning! We left my former student to experience the Somali breakfast for the first time while we drove back to Guelph. This experience was nostalgic for the Amhara, new for my former student, similar for the Maasai, cultural for the Somali and heavenly for me. Authenticity is mostly defined by how it was made back home or by our mum “narrative of affiliative desire”. We will go back in the summer.

Mahadsanid Salaama Hut.

 

Sambuus and Mandazi

*It was a sumptuous meal that I spent the next few days watching and listening to Somalia Toso by Ilyas Mao ft. Saabik Poetry.

 

 

Bamidele Adekunle

ECVOntario & Intellectnomics Research Group (IRG)

SEDRD, University of Guelph

 

Read More »