April 23, 2023
Behind the Aroma Podcast Notes for Season 02 Episode 02: Capitalism and our Food System
Behind the Aroma Podcast Notes for Season 02 Episode 01: Geographical Indications
Frequently Asked Questions: Geographical Indications. (n.d.). https://www.wipo.int/geo_indications/en/faq_geographicalindications.html
Geographical Indications. (n.d.). https://www.wipo.int/geo_indications/en/
Geographical Indications: An Introduction, 2nd edition. (n.d.). www.wipo.int. https://doi.org/10.34667/tind.44179
Idapuzone. (2022, March 25). 21/03/2022-Recognition of Penja Pepper as a PGI in the European Union - oriGIn | Organization for an. oriGIn | Organization for an International Geographical Indications Network. https://www.origin-gi.com/recognition-of-penja-pepper-as-a-pgi-in-the-european-union/
Information by Country: Nigeria. (n.d.). https://www.wipo.int/directory/en/details.jsp?country_code=NG
Interactive, E. (2020, August 20). Guji Uraga Natural Special Prep - Ally Coffee | Green Coffee. Ally Coffee. https://www.allycoffee.com/coffees/guji-uraga-natural/
M, R. (2022). European market: Penja pepper becomes the 1st OAPI product registered as a Protected Indication. ÔCamer.com. https://ocamer.com/en/news/marche-europeen-le-poivre-de-penja-devient-le-1er-produit-de-loapi-enregistre-comme-indication-protege-2/7639
OAPI - Organisation Africaine de la Propriété Intellectuelle. (n.d.). http://www.oapi.int/index.php/fr/
TECHNOPOLICY BRIEFS – ATPS. (n.d.). https://atpsnet.org/technopolicy-briefs/
What is Intellectual Property (IP)? (n.d.). https://www.wipo.int/about-ip/en/
To listen to this episode: https://radiopublic.com/behind-the-aroma-6Lzn0Q/s1!057d5
March 7, 2023
Pleasure and Hospitality: Attributes of Culturally Appropriate Foods
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| Milk Tea: A popular beverage in Bangladesh |
I
wrote this piece on a snowy late afternoon while sipping a hot cup of coffee.
Outside my window, I can see how the streets were blanketed in an enchanting
layer of white snowflakes. The snow fall reminds me of those rainy days back
home in Bangladesh where people often enjoy the melody of rain by sharing
stories, munching on warm, crispy pakoras (fritters made with vegetables, gram
flour, spices, and herbs). The taste of good food, the sound of rain, spending
time with loved ones create moments of sitting back, with joy, and contentment.
It is always memorable to observe Adda.
“Adda”
is a Bangla term used to refer a casual get-together with acquaintances. Adda
is one of the most popular social gatherings to unwind and unite with loved
ones. They are often organized at someone's home, where friends and family
gather to catch up and chat over a steaming cup of cha (tea) and snacks.
The snacks served can include samosas (a triangular-shaped deep-fried,
crispy pastry filled with spiced potatoes, peas, meat, or other vegetables), or
Jhal Muri (puffed rice, mixed with different spices, herbs, diced onion,
tomato, chili peppers, lime zest). Cha is a popular beverage, and its
consumption is woven into the frame of everyday life. Furthermore, it is an expression
of hospitality and warmth. There are two popular forms of Cha in the Bengali
culture: milk tea and masala tea. Milk tea is made with black tea leaves, sugar,
and milk. On the other hand, Masala tea (spiced tea) is a more flavorful
version of tea that is made with a blend of spices and herbs. The common spices
used in masala tea include ginger, cloves, cardamom, and cinnamon.
Nowadays,
having quick and lonely meal- time has become the norm due to my hectic
schedule and limited social connections. I long for the sound of laughter,
banter, and warmth of our family kitchen, where the aroma of my mother's
cooking would fill the air. Bengali cuisine reflects the harmonious balance of
flavors, and diversity inherent in the culture of Bangladesh. One of the key
elements that make it so unique and flavorful is the use of a variety of
spices, such as chilies, garlic, cumin, turmeric, ginger, coriander, mustard
seeds, bay leaves and cardamom. Additionally, geographical location, history,
and climate greatly influence Bengali cuisine.
The
factors listed above affected the type and way our vegetables are prepared. A
variety of vegetables (leafy greens, potatoes, squash, radish, carrots, okra,
cucumber, eggplant, cauliflower, cabbage, etc.) hold a prominent place in
Bengali meals and are used to create different nutritious and flavorful dishes.
From curries to stir-fries, vegetable dishes are a hearty way to incorporate
fresh ingredients into a meal. The fresh vegetable markets offer consumers a
variety of options for purchasing locally grown vegetables that are in season. In
addition to vegetable markets, vegetable carts are also popular which offer a
convenient way for consumers to buy fresh produce on the go. These mobile
vendors travel through neighborhoods, sell a variety of fresh vegetables to customers
who may not have the time to travel to a marketplace.
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| Vegetable Market: Dhaka City |
Food
is deeply connected to my feelings and memories of Bengali culture. The process
of organizing and cooking traditional dishes is also a way to express love and
care for others. For instance, certain dishes may be associated with a specific
person, and time and can take you back to a feeling of nostalgia. Sometimes,
grandparents pass down recipes and cooking procedures to their grandchildren. Cooking
certain dishes builds bridges among multiple generations. These meals are a way
of celebrating our ancestors, who lived before us. The significant aspect of
food is not limited to nourishing but is deeply rooted in traditions and
emotions. Food serves as a symbol of unity, celebration, hospitality, generosity,
and expression of cultural identity.
Mahbuba Airin | Graduate Student, CDE | ECVOntario
SEDRD | University of Guelph.
February 6, 2023
Food Research during COVID-19
*This is part of our series on the nexus between COVID-19 and food systems.
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| Hibiscus tea and soup at La Khaima |
A few days ago, I spent two
hours on the phone with a friend in Shanghai, China discussing the zero covid
policy and how it affected his economic situation and his physical as well as mental
health. We also discussed the implication on the global value chain now that
China is gradually returning to normal. The two-hours conversation reminded me
of a pending writeup based on a documentation I did in December 2021. Please
get a cup of organic tea, a bowl of ogi (eko), or a warm cup of rooibos tisane
as you peruse the journey below:
On Monday, Dec. 20, 2021, I
arrived at the Guelph train station enroute to Montreal. At this point in time,
passengers are expected to provide hard copy or digital proof of vaccination.
Before boarding, the QR Code on our proof of vaccination and boarding pass were
scanned for all the passengers. After a brief stop at the Union Station in
Toronto to change trains, I arrived in Montreal and was able to check in to my
hotel just after 9 pm. On my way to the hotel, I was informed that restaurants
and bars were closed which later turned out to be a misinterpretation of the
government’s announcement. At the hotel, the staff on duty indicated that
because of COVID there would be no room service including housekeeping. I
discovered that there were also no room hand sanitizers. Guests were expected
to use a general sanitizer by the elevator. Furthermore, the hotel stopped
complimentary bottled water and there was no breakfast which had been part of
their service in 2018. Services have deteriorated significantly within three years,
and this is not entirely due to the pandemic.
I woke up the next day, Tuesday,
Dec 21, 2021, mentally ready to document the challenges faced by the food systems
in Montreal under the prevailing pandemic. Since there was no more breakfast by
the hotel, I had to visit Cora, a Canadian franchise for breakfast and lunch.
At the place, my proof of vaccination was also scanned before I was allowed
into the restaurant. All other regular restrictions expected in a restaurant
were also observed in the restaurant. A state of emergency was later declared
by the Quebec Government because of the increasing cases of COVID-19 even though
while passing through the streets of Montreal, the impact of the state of
emergency was not necessarily apparent.
![]() |
| Breakfast at Cora, Montreal |
Day three, Wednesday Dec 22,
2021. I started the day again with a Cora breakfast. Within less than my
breakfast hour, ten people were in the restaurant. Thus, the state of emergency
notwithstanding, some people were still willing to eat out. After my breakfast
I called La Khaima to book a space to experience Mauritania/Morocco cuisines.
Although the owner was not sure whether they would be open, people seemed not
to understand the state of emergency implications. After a brief discussion I
was able to get space for 5 pm. I decided to explore Montreal’s streets before
my dinner at La Khaima. My exploration led to more than an hour stop at a
specialty café, Café Olimpico, that is less than 200 metres to my destination.
People are social beings, and the café was a solace for people longing for
social interaction in a safe space. In this space familiarity trumped having a vaccine
passport. The space is trendy, cozy, homely and classy and the customers are
likely middle and upper class – those who could afford a latte for
more than $5. It is generally a white space though I met a young Congolese lady
studying law at a Montreal university. An indication that white is not
necessarily based on color, there is a possibility of color privilege based on
education. Did spaces become more class and race concentrated because of the
pandemic? The francophone lady wanted to be seen but she didn’t want to say she
is African. I am from here she said when I asked her country of origin.
![]() |
| Cafe Olimpico |
The music playing was very
soothing to the extent that I forgot that the pandemic was still around. Clover,
a Cloud based point of sale platform, was the payment system used at the Olimpico
café. People in this space seemed not to be bothered by, OMICRON, the strain of
COVID-19 creating havoc that time. Most of the people were working on their
laptops as seen in cafes such as Balzac’s coffee roasters and Starbucks. This
space was where I discovered that media can be a source of misinformation. I
totally forgot about the pandemic until I reached my hotel room and started
watching scary news updates on television. My takeaway from Olimpico was that restriction
may not go well with people even though OMICRON was then a challenge.
![]() |
| Cake and latte at Olimpico |
Before returning to my room, I
walked for around 10 minutes from Olimpico café to La Khaima, entering the
restaurant at 5:01 pm for my dinner. The cuisine for the night was Soup –
Lentil soup with turmeric and ginger and a three-course meal. 1st –
chicken with olives; 2nd – Beef with dates; 3rd – Mixed
vegetables with chickpeas + couscous. The mixed vegetables were a blend of olive,
okra, cabbage, carrot, chickpeas. The restaurant was designed in such a way that you felt you were in a desert tent. The air was filled with the aroma
of the cuisines from the Sahel and different music from Africa. The dinner
started with an appetiser, a hot hibiscus tea, served in a traditional kettle
to keep the drink warm. The owner took his time to educate me about the
cuisines and that the palatability of couscous is a function of the sauce. And
that slow cooking improves the taste and spreads the ingredients evenly. The
evening was pleasant and 30 people were at the restaurant while I was there.
The shock was that I was the only person of African descent in the restaurant
during my stay. Until today I still wonder why there were more non-Africans in a
restaurant serving African cuisines. Could it be the price? I observed the same
scenario in a Moroccan restaurant, The Sultan’s Tent and Café Maroc, in Toronto,
six years ago. Food is already globalized but it may become exclusive for
people of a certain class and/or education.
After my documentation, I returned
to Guelph on Thursday, Dec. 23, 2021. I left Montreal with the first train at
6.11 am, arrived in Ottawa at 9.30 am due to a delay as a result of cargo freight
obstruction on the rail. The stopover in Ottawa was to have a brief meeting
with friends and deliver their Christmas packs. I left Ottawa at 3.33 pm, arriving
at the Toronto Union station before 9 pm and took the 9.34 pm Go train to Guelph
(Metrolinx has improved rail connectivity to include cities outside the Greater
Toronto Area up to Kitchener).
This journey and other research
experience during the pandemic indicate that inequality has deepened, exclusion
is more prevalent, food shortages have increased and at times quality is
compromised. Furthermore, socialization was significantly curtailed, and income
was reduced because of layoffs and reduced hours. I hope we will be able to
manage random events better in the future.
Bamidele Adekunle|IRG &
ECVOntario|SEDRD|University of Guelph.
December 23, 2022
Burgers for All
When
North Americans think “fast-food”, the first thought that comes to our mind is “burgers
and fries”. This may be due to the high presence and saturation of the
world-famous restaurant, McDonald’s. Although each burger has a unique
recipe, there are a few staple ingredients: A toasted bun, a slice of cheese
and/or vegetables, and a meat-based patty. However, what about those who choose
not to eat meat?
According
to a research study conducted at Dalhousie University in 2018,
vegetarians and vegans accounted for 9.4% of Canada’s population
For
those who choose not to eat meat, there are very few options. I, myself, am not
a vegetarian or vegan but I have friends and relatives who do not eat meat and
often find it difficult to find a vegetarian-friendly restaurant, specifically fast-food.
I find that meat eaters take the plethora of burger joints available, for
granted. However, as there is a rise in vegetarian and vegan consumers,
vegetarian and vegan options are also slowly growing and becoming more common.
For this blog post, I decided to try some vegetarian burger options near me.
Specifically, I wanted to compare the quality of a more popular fast-food chain
vegetarian burger, to the quality of a vegetarian restaurant’s burger.
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| Beyond Burger |
A&W is known for serving
grass-fed beef, raised without the use of hormones, steroids or antibiotics
![]() |
| Copper Branch |
The
vegetarian restaurant that I went to was Copper Branch; a vegan
restaurant which serves 100% plant-based foods. As of 2019, the franchise has
opened 45 locations across Canada, with 16 locations in Ontario, and some
branches established internationally as well
![]() |
| Black Bean Burger |
Both A&W and Copper Branch’s burgers provided me with a pleasant tasting experience and gave me more reason to eat consciously. As the number of vegetarian and vegan consumers continues to rise, restaurants need to include alternatives to allow for greater choice. Choosing meat alternative products can encourage production and potentially increase product choice too. So, if you are ever craving a good juicy burger, I invite you to try the “Beyond Burger” from A&W. Or, if you are craving a burger with a kick to it, try the “Black Bean Burger” from Copper Branch. You will not be disappointed!
References
A&W. (2020). A&W Company. Retrieved from
A&W: https://www.aw.ca/awhome.nsf/company/
Beyond Meat. (2022). Beyond Burger. Retrieved from Beyond Meat:
https://www.beyondmeat.com/en-CA/products/the-beyond-burger
Flanagan, R. (2018). More than 3 million Canadians Vegetarian or
Vegan: Study. CTV News.
Retail Insider. (2019, February 25). Plant-Based Concept ‘Copper
Branch’ Announces 26 Locations for 2019. Retrieved from Retail Insider:
https://retail-insider.com/retail-insider/2019/02/plant-based-concept-copper-branch-announces-26-locations-for-2019/
Jevon Devasagayam
Global Management Studies Department
Toronto Metropolitan University
December 14, 2022
Food: A Bengali Perspective
![]() |
| Bhapa Pitha - Bangladeshi Winter Delicacy |
As an international
student, living in a foreign country, the food that I have an appetite for, and
cook is an accumulation of my convenience and experience instead of my taste
buds. Coming from a Bangladeshi heritage, food is not only a means of survival
or nutrients but also a means of cultural celebration, community engagement,
building and sharing social bonds.
The opportunity, to
work on this write-up made me reflect on the idea of how food is beyond
nutritional value. My impression is that food is not limited to nutrients and
taste. Food can also be an advocate for more insightful and purposeful causes.
After examining food through the lens of a critical perspective, my narrative
about food has extended toward building strong community ties. The warmth of food
serves as a catalyst for spreading harmony in society.
In Bangla, the language
spoken by the Bengali people, there is a common saying “Machh-e-Bhat-e-Bangali”
which translates in English as “Fish and rice make a Bengali”. Bangladeshi cuisine
has been shaped by the local landscape and river line geography. Rice and fish
are the staples of Bangladesh. People eat rice in different forms: steamed or
puffed. Bangladeshi curry is famed for its use of a wide range of freshwater
fish and seafood. Hilsa fish is the most popular one, but other common fish
include rohu, punti, catfish, bata, clown Knifefish, and Tilapia.
![]() |
| Fish Market - Dhaka Bangladesh |
Sharing Food with other
people in the community plays a significant social role in Bangladeshi culture.
During Ramadan, families share home-cooked iftar (meal after breaking the
day-long fast) with their neighbors and underprivileged people. This social
experience of sharing food with other fellow citizens regardless of religious
faith creates a sense of inclusivity in the community. Thus, people from
diverse faiths and backgrounds celebrate the social value of harmony.
In the fast-paced
world, where doing is more valuable than being, sharing food with neighbours
gives us the opportunity to begin a beautiful relationship with our neighbours.
My parents have moved houses several times and each time we had kind neighbours
who would prepare freshly cooked homemade meals, pickles, herbs, or vegetables
so that my parents wouldn't have to cook or eat out at a restaurant while they
were still in the process of moving. It is only now that I am living in a
foreign country far away from home, I can relate and realize how valuable human
connection is. This beautiful gesture of sharing blessings with other fellow
human beings, can open the doors of communication and social bonding. It’s hard
to say no to free food.
Nature has adorned the
land of the river with her six shades of green: summer, monsoon, autumn, late
autumn, winter, and spring. Bengali people enjoy the mild cold of Winter with
delicious Pitha (or pies). Pitha is a traditional homemade cake with local
ingredients such as rice flour, molasses, milk, date juice and coconut. During
this time, varieties of Pithas are prepared: Bhapa Pitha (Steamed rice cakes
made with ground rice flour, molasses, and grated coconut), Chioti Pitha
(steamed flat pancakes made with rice flour), Patishapta (sweet crepes filled
with coconut and molasses), Puli Pitha (steamed dumplings stuffed with coconut
and jaggery), Nakshi Pitha (deep-fried crispy rice cake made with rice flour,
Jaggery syrup). Celebrating winter may remain incomplete without the aroma of
this winter delicacy. Each person can choose something they really like from
sweet to savory, from steamed to fried, from golden to white. Pitha has no
strict formulaic preparation. Apart from the winter season, Bengalis express
their love for this local delicacy in other special occasions like celebrating
Bengali new year, Eid, Puja, weddings etc.
Pitha is more than just
an expression of a festival. It is a glorious demonstration of locally grown
food ingredients and agriculture. I can vividly feel the mouth-watering taste
of Bhapa Pitha when I read the recipe which is a steamed rice cake made with
rice flour, molasses, and grated coconut. Embracing the practice of eating
local food can be a support for local small businesses. Elora Begum, a local
vendor in Dhaka city, sells Pithas in roadside carts during the winter. She has
been preparing this delicious goodness for years with easily accessible local
ingredients. This small business is generating income for her. Therefore,
buying local food can contribute to strengthening the local economy.
![]() |
| Misty - Bangladeshi Sweets |
Sharing happiness with
loved ones makes the experience more joyful. In Bangladesh, no celebration is
complete without having “Misty”. Misty is a common name for Bangladeshi sweets.
Misty is prepared with whole milk, cream, sugar, flour, and different flavoring
agents: cardamom, and saffron. People here love to share any good news with
sweets. For instance, if a family welcomes a newborn baby, they tend to send
sweets to relatives, and neighbours. Sharing the light of joy and happiness
with community members expresses the gesture of belongingness. This practice
spreads the sweetness of connectivity among residents in a community. The
feeling of being connected with the "tribe" makes us feel safe.
Mahbuba Airin
Graduate Student, CDE | ECVOntario
SEDRD, University of Guelph
October 27, 2022
Behind the Aroma II: Understanding Skin in the Game
I like interacting with people and learning about their ideas. Working with ‘Behind the Aroma II’ as a Graduate Research Assistant has helped me learn from people from different backgrounds, These people include shop owners, restaurant managers, people in academia and industry experts. I had the opportunity to learn about what they do and what they know best.

Xawaash Restaurant Mississauga, Ontario
The experience made me go
to different places here in Guelph, which exposed me to the city as I am new
here. It also gave me a sense of accomplishment as I was making and meeting
appointments every week with new people for discussions around the topics of
the podcast. I was also glad that the work I was doing supported research that
will help educate others about food authenticity.

Balzac’s Coffee Guelph, Ontario
During the four months of
summer, I visited the Guelph Farmers Market, the Ethnic Supermarket, Xawaash
Restaurant and Bogda Restaurant for research on Halal food. I discovered how
diverse the markets are and how the two restaurants cater to people beyond
those who have halal food preferences. It opened my eyes to how people in
Canada from different origins seek to explore food from cultures other than
their own.
I learned the immediate
impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the food industry, especially on specialty
foods such as organic, locally grown, and halal. As sourcing became limited and
difficult because there are few suppliers and producers of specialty goods in
Ontario. As a result, vendors were not able to keep up with the restrictions
and decline in sales, forcing them to give up their spots in the Farmers’
Market or eliminate specialty products from their menus.
Furthermore, I also conducted interviews
with the manager of Balzac’s Coffee shop, the manager of Crazy Carrot
restaurant and the owner of Cavan Coffee. I got to know how they source their
coffee and ingredients and what their values are and how they make sure
those values are made known to their customers. These interactions gave me the
opportunity to learn how these coffee shops support coffee growers around
the world to ensure they have a living wage by subscribing to the fair trade movement.

Crazy Carrot Restaurant Guelph, Ontario
By meeting and holding
discussions with industry experts like Ms. Mariama Deen-Swarray, Mr. Sand Mba
Kalu, Ms. Marthane Swart, Mr. Tunde Oyebade, and Mr. Simon Jacques, my
perspectives were widened on the work being done in Canada and in the world to
educated people on the authenticity and origins of food. I got to learn about
geographical indications and the implications of the word and was introduced to
African companies paving the way for development and recognition in geographical
indications such as the Rooibos Council.
Here in Canada, I got to
understand the process of Organic certification through ECOCERT which is
rigorous in nature and involves multiple site visits by professionals at
different stages of the growing and harvesting process. There is also a
tremendous difference between organic certification and other food
certifications as other food certifications are not thoroughly verified in
Canada as is organic. This shows that there is an asymmetric information and
the possibility of adverse selection in the market.
Behind the Aroma II has afforded me the opportunity to learn about what our food actually is and where
our food comes from through subject matter experts like Dr. Robert Hanner, Dr.
Sri Sethuratnam, and Ms. Anju Philip. What we see or read on food labels isn’t
necessarily the whole truth about the product. It was fascinating to hear about
advancements in technology in identifying what is in the food we buy, the
origins of the species and the environment in which it was grown through DNA
barcoding.
The fieldwork was really enjoyable because I was able to discover new
places in Guelph such as shops, cafes, markets, and quiet places to study at the University of Guelph campus. Interviewing people online in the ECVOntario remote podcast studio was the challenging part of
this experience but I got more comfortable with it as time progresses.

University of Guelph Summerlee Science Complex Atrium
Some of the competencies
I gained through this experience are relationship building, public speaking, research,
and interview skills. These skills will be useful as I continue to grow in
my career, which will involve interviews, focus group discussions, surveys, knowledge translation and transfer, analyses and report writing. look forward to listening to the finalized second season of ‘Behind the
Aroma’ and sharing it with my colleagues and friends.
MSc CDE Graduate | ECVOntario | IRG
SEDRD, University of Guelph
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